------------------ GOPNIK ------------------- -----------------By BonkPewPews---------------- If you downloaded these files, you probably live in a dystopian country where firearms are not available to common folk. If not, be happy not, as some parts of this manual still contain information on how to manufacture substances that are illegal everywhere. Now you're probably on some sort of watchlist, so be prepared to deal with KGB, Gestapo and Fedia. Fuck Fedia. GOPNIK is the ultimate hand cannon capable of protecting your property from ruffians, removing your own appendages and impressing local milfs. (Picture 1) It's buildable completely from scratch, and that includes ammunition too. There are only six printable parts - grip, barrel retainer, frame, trigger, hammer and knob. Non printable parts list is quite short, most of these things can be found in any garage or office. ----------------------Parts list--------------------- -4mm or 5mm screw, at least 42mm long with corresponding nut. (We'll call this pivot screw) -4mm screw no longer than 12mm (We'll call this hammer screw) -2x 3mm screw, 40-42mm long. (We'll call these reinforcing screws) -3mm screw, at least 40mm long with corresponding nut. (We'll call this firing pin screw) -3mm screw between 28-38mm in lenght. (We'll call this horizontal grip screw) -3mm screw between 13-18mm in lenght. (We'll call this vertical grip screw) -2x 3mm screws between 20-24mm in lenght. (We'll call these fcg screws) -Few rubber bands. Lenght does not matter as they can be bundled together or folded several times. -4.5-5mm hex key. Piece of same diameter steel wire works too. Hex key should be at least 45x43mm long. -Small spring from a pen. - Some plastic percussion caps for toy revolvers. - *OPTIONAL* Any priming compound. -Sandpaper or file. -Epoxy or superglue. -*OPTIONAL* Drill -*OPTIONAL* 15mm drill bit. - *OPTIONAL* About 13mm ID (or 15mm ID)/22mm OD seamless pipe (variations up to 0.3mm are acceptable) longer than 100mm. -*OPTIONAL* Spring with outer diameter from 6 to 8 mm. Wire thickness should be at least 0.5mm and lenght at least 25mm. -------------------------PRINTING------------------------------ All parts except the grip should be printed with their original orientations or flat. Barrel/retainer should be printed vertically. 100% or 99% infill and PLA+ strongly recommended. Use 60-80 percent cooling. Grip can be angled and printed in any way you like, infill doesn't have to be 100% since it's not a load bearing part. -------------------------BUILDING------------------------------ -BARREL- See (Picture 2) for assembly instructions. Ignore barrel insertion if you have fully printed insertless variant. If you have chosen to make a steel barrel, it has to be drilled with 15mm bit 63mm deep on the breech end. This can be done with hand drill, but best results are achieved with drill press. Polishing is optional, though it helps with extraction somewhat. If you have 15mm ID barrel, this step can be skipped and it can be used instead, but power loss and increased shot spread will be noticeable. - GRIP - You'll need fcg screws, hammer screw and rubber bands for this part. See (Picture 4) for assembly instructions. - FRAME - Reinforce the frame by screwin in two about 40mm long 3mm screws vertically into the breech block (Picture 12). Now take firing pin screw and insert it into the very center of the breech plate. Its head should face the barrel (Picture 5). Threaded end should protrude about 5-6 mm from the other end (Picture 6) and under no circumstances should protrude from large U shaped recession. Shorten this end with pliers if need arises to make it shorter and file it down so that nut can be screwed on. Insert the pen spring in here and srew on a nut on top. Adjust nuts position for the spring to be compressed a bit. place a drop of superglue on it so it stays in place. Take your hex key or wire and make sure it fits through the lowest hole. This is going to be the barrel locking mechanism. It has to be inserted before attaching the grip to the frame. Cut or file down your breech lock to specifications written as comments in picture (Picture 3). Affix grip to the frame with vertical and horizontal grip screws and place a rubber band on the hammer (Pictures 7 and 8). -RETAINER- Affix barrel retainer to the pivot point with pivot screw (Picture 9). -SPRING LOADED HAMMER *OPTIONAL*- If you want GOPNIK to look more clean or hate rubber bands for their lack of longetivity, see (Picture 13) for assembly instructions. -SHELLS- If you're printing full shell model, use default orientation and supports. Sometimes torch hole is filled with support material, so you'll have to poke the hole with a hot needle (Picture 10). Printing priming unit and shell separately eliminates the need for supports completely. Place a toy percussion cap on the nipple - it should fit snugly. Scrape some wax from a candle or from your ear and rub it on and around the cap so it doesn't fall out easily. If you're using priming compound, make it moist with rubbing alcohol or acetone and place a drop of it inside a printed percussion cap. wait for it to dry. This cap variant does not need waxing as it fits tightly on the nipple. Sprinkle some priming compound into the torch hole before filling the shell with propellant. Stuff from percussion caps works, but also some less sensitive compounds like TATP, lead azide, etc. This prevents hangfires and solves possible reliability issues. Fill about 1/3 of the shell with black powder. If commercial black powder or BP substitutes are used, cut this amount in half. Compress the powder with a wad (tissue paper works fine), push in a shot cup and then insert whatever junk you want to launch. Large nuts (metal kind of nuts), lead shot, rocks, everything goes (Picture 11). -------------------MAKING BLACK POWDER---------------- This will be a simplified version. Better instructions can be found in the interwebz. To make a 100 gram batch you'll need: * 75 grams of saltpetre or KNO3 * 15 grams of charcoal * 10 grams of sulfur Run each ingridient through coffee grinder separately till there is only fine dust left. Mix all of them in a jar. That's simplest and dirtiest form of black powder. If this homemade powder does not suit your needs, there are many manuals out there on how to refine it further. -------------------MAKING TATP---------------- TATP is very common primary high explosive used in detonators of IEDs. There's a lot of misinformation floating around about it's sensitivity and stability - truth is, this substance is less sensitive than most commercial priming compounds and is shelf stable for many years. For our purposes, there's no need to make a large amount of it, so it's going to be pretty safe proccess. You'll need: - 100ml of acetone. - 100ml of oxygen based bleach (read the label - sometimes it's written that there's specific hydrogen peroxide content. Usually concentration is between 8-12%). - 15-25ml of 30% muriatic acid or 10 ml of sulfuric acid. - Some water. - Ice. - Glass jar. - Large bowl or any container larger than the jar. - Baking soda. - Paper towels, napkins or cloth rags. Find a well ventilated are - balconies and garages are best places. Prepare an ice bath in larger container. Mix acetone and bleach in a jar, then slowly pour the acid. Mix everything again and place the jar in ice bath. Do not cover the jar with anything, evaporation is not a problem. Leave this jar for 2-3 days, you'll see that some small crystals have formed in the liquid. Remove the jar from larger container. Unfold a paper towel, tissue or cloth rag - this will be your filter. Now put on some gloves or do following steps everything quickly so that acid cannot do much damage to your skin. Pour contents of the jar through the filter until all crystals are captured in it. Fold the filter like a bag and run some tap water through it - this removes most leftover acid and bleach. Squeeze the crumpled filter so it's not soaking wet. FIll a jar with half liter of water, add three spoons of baking soda. Submerge part of the filter that holds TATP crystals in soda solution. Make sure it's soaked with it. Now remove the filter and rinse it again. Shake out bigger clumps of crystals onto a dry cloth or sheet of paper. Leave the filter and these clumps to dry in a warm place for a couple of days. After filter has dried completely rub it between your hands do that remaining crystalized TATP can be shaken out. Now you have some dry powder/crystals that can be used as booster for your percussion caps. Do not use more than a tiny pinch (0.08g or less) for one shell. ---------------------SOME ADVICE------------------- * If you want to keep an option of changing hammer mechanism from rubber bands to spring and vice-versa, print following parts: - Rubber band frame - Spring grip - Both types of hammers - Spring guide rod - 2x Washers - Trigger - Any barrel type - Knob * If for some reason you cannot make black powder but have access to smokeless powder, use tiny amounts of it. Do not use amounts of powder that correspond to more than 1200 Joules of energy. Examples include: more than 2x load of 9x19mm, more than one and a half .27cal/6.8mm nailgun blanks, more than five .22 lr loads. * Do not use anything more powerful than 1/3 of the shell of black powder or comparable smokeless powder (.38 spl) loads for fully printable barrel. * If very low amount of propellant is used, GOPNIK can be safely fired in eclosed spaces, like basements. * Clean the barrel with a brush or wad after every 10-15 shots. * Fire first few shots from the hip and keep your face away from the gun. Use one hand to hold it. If you follow safety recommendations, your wrist will most likely not break. --------------------AND THAT'S IT---------------- If you found these instructions lacking something, contact me on Odysee (Bonkpewpews), Reddit or Discord (Shit_On_Wheels).