So, you decided the full PDF guide was too much? Why use many words when few words do trick? Or maybe you don’t like good stories. Whatever your reason, here’s the quick and dirty assembly and build guide for you. This is for the standard version. If you wanna do the takedown version head to that txt file. 1) Print Orientations -Upper Receiver: Upside Down - supports everywhere -Lower Receiver: Upside Down - supports not necessary -Grips: Upside Down, supports on build plate if desired -Receiver Rail: Right side up, (.16 layer height for max resolution) no supports -Shrouds: print them vertical. If you have a bed slinger make sure and use a brim. Supports as needed -Stocks/Braces: Print them vertical. If you have a bed slinger make sure and use a brim. Supports as needed ***If you are an experienced printer just look at the printed parts and decide what works best for print orientation.*** 2. Printer Settings and materials-------------------------------------------------- -Always ensure your printer is calibrated to reduce post processing steps -PLA+ is suggested, and you don’t necessarily have to print everything with 100% infill. But do at least 8 walls if you decide to go lower infill amounts -Print as hot as your filament allows for good adhesion 3. Post Processing tips------------------------------------------------------------ -The upper receiver is the most crucial piece to ensure proper function of your firearm. Clear out supports. Barrel fitment on the standard version is meant to be especially tight. This reduces the possibility of your barrel leaning down when you tighten your v-block. Sand and file if needed to get it to fit. It should be seated all the way in your receiver. -Check bolt operation once supports are cleared from your upper receiver. Sand/file until your bolt can move freely and smoothly. Some newer ruger bolts seem to have a coating on them, sand and polish it off with fine grit sandpaper to get a better operation out of it. -Always ensure pieces fit together before bolting them together. -Pre drill all holes to their respective bolt sizes. If you don’t it will cause issues during assembly. I suggest reaming holes by hand (either a drill bit in a pair of vise grips or a jeweler's style hand drill. It's plastic, no need to break out the makita. -Rear rail and stock/brace attachment point is tight, use a nylon faced hammer to fully seat if needed. -You’ll likely need to file and sand the tabs and holes on your receiver and shroud to get things to fit. Be patient and don’t rush this part. 4. Assembly Prep------------------------------------------------------------- -Heat inserts can be tricky to install for a first time builder. You will melt them in with a soldering iron. To ensure a straight fit, you can install a bolt into them while they’re still hot and see if you can move the bolt to be generally straight up and down. You will need to use a drill bit to ream out any melted plastic. Test bolt fitment until it threads in smoothly. -M3 heat inserts go in the upper receiver, on the inside to hold the rail on. Make sure they’re melted down so they don’t hit the bolt. -M3 heat inserts go in the bottom of the lower receiver, one on each corner. -M4 heat inserts go in the upper receiver on the inside, they’re used to hold the barrel in. Use the side of your soldering iron to melt them in fully. -the M5 heat insert goes in the top of the lower receiver in the grip screw hole. This needs to go all the way inside the channel with none sticking out the top. 5. Assembly Process-------------------------------------------------------- -Begin by installing the rail on the top of your receiver. Use the 3 button head bolts to do this. If you’d like to use some glue here in addition to the bolts you can as well. -Next, install your barrel. If you’re using a factory barrel, you can twist it in using the extractor groove to cut any plastic out of the way. Printed barrels require a bit more finesse but just go slow and sand until it fits SNUG. Once fully seated, move onto next step. -Install your bolt with the charging handle. Rotate barrel so the extractor groove in the barrel lines up with extractor in your bolt. This is called clocking your barrel. Check operation of bolt after this step. -Install barrel v-block and tighten down the two M4 bolts back and forth until the barrel is fully tight in receiver. -Install the bolt buffer pin and check bolt operation. -Install the grip on your lower receiver with the M5 bolt -Mate the upper and lower receiver and install the M3x45 bolts in the front and the M3x50 bolts in the rear. These go all the way through to the heat inserts you installed. -Install the trigger pack, it will likely be tight. You can tap it in with a nylon faced mallet. Install receiver cross pins and check bolt operation. -Install shroud and tighten the two bolts on top and bottom. -Install your brace of choice on the back, may require tapping on with the mallet. -Stand back and admire your creation 6. Function Check------------------------------------------------------ -10/22 bolts can be stiff in a plastic receiver, use PTFE dry lube liberally and operate the bolt until things free up. Shooting will break it in. But you can expect some malfunctions until your bolt slides back and forth without any resistance other than recoil spring pressure. -Ruger branded magazines should be used for reliability. -Share your build with me on twitter! I love to see a completed build!