Read me for Glockoma Vityaz's Folly ALPHA release. WARNING THIS IS A MINIMALLY TESTED ALPHA DESIGN, READ THE ENTIRE README BEFORE BUILDING. This was only tested with around 100 rounds through it due to strict time constraints for the design competition release. Because of this I would only consider this build for those that are very comfortable with glock builds and trouble shooting them. It is very finicky at this stage. Plus this requires the permanent modification of some of the parts. Read the whole readme and understand what you need to do before starting. This build requires the removal of the slides out of battery safety. So build and shoot at your own risk. This will be improved upon massively in the future. But for now this is it. This build idea was originally thought of by my dear friend that goes by the name TheOtherSig. But he never brought the design to life due to more interesting and intelligent projects taking his time. This is my take on his crazy idea. I started this model with the base file FMDA DD19.2 3D Printable Glock Frame and then modified it heavily to run suomi drum magazines. I did the testing for this design with the JSD Patmos Arms Revelation 19.2 3D Printed Combo. JSD was kind enough to donate this kit for the project as part of a design competition they were sponsoring. So please give them some love (money) if you go to build one. https://jsdsupply.com/shop/19-2-3d-printed-combo/ In general, any glock 19 slide should work for this, but this one was tested and proofed with the patmos slide. So performance with others may vary. Ok… lets build this thing… Parts needed: Glock 19 parts kit with the FMDA DD19.2 type rails Suomi drum magazine PLA+ of a good quality Thats it… this version uses nothing but the hardware supplied in the JSD Patmos Arms Revelation 19.2 3D Printed Combo and a suomi drum. The drums are available regularly on gunbroker or from clearveiw investment. Printing: There are 3 physical printed parts to this build. But I’ve placed them into one single stl file to be printed at one time. I did all of my prints and testing running a 0.6mm nozzle. Support from build plate and add supports to the magazine catch over hangs. Print solid infill with a lot of walls. More walls more better. Building: Most of this can be assembled as you would a normal 3dp glock (You shouldn’t need me to walk you through that since you are already experienced with building glocks… RIIIIGGGHT). But obviously there are mods to that. Note: the mag catch is literally just a non captured rectangle block that you push into the mag catch slot after the mag is fully inserted. Is this a craptastic mag catch… absolutely. But time was critical during design and I didn’t want to spend time tweaking and testing different mag catch designs. So I went with one that just gives a super repeatable placement to the height of the mag for testing. Obviously later versions will have better mag catches. (Note: there is even a slot and pin hole for a paddle mag catch I haven't designed yet) Also, the trigger pin hole was left in the front of the frame in case you have a spare pin and want to put it in there. But it was not needed or used in that hole in testing. That trigger pin was used.. for the trigger in the rear.. Barrel Mod: Look at the barrel picture included in this file for reference. In order for the magazine to fit up high enough to feed the feed ramp of the glock barrel needs to be trimmed a bit. You will need to grind the lower corners of the feed ramp off. Make sure not to take too much as you want to keep as much as possible. You can test fit it once your frame is built. If you assemble the gun and seat a mag. The untrimmed barrel will catch on the magazine feed lips and stop the action from cycling. Remove material from the bottom corners of the barrel feed ramp until the slide can fully cycle. I chose to mode the barrel over the drum mag due to cost. Glock barrels are made every day still and cheap to replace. Suomi drum mags are not… Trigger Bar Mod: LOOK at the frame picture included in this file for reference. In order to move the trigger behind the fcg you will need to cut the trigger bar and use the printed trigger bar in the file. You will need to cut the trigger bar roughly in half and trim each end to fit the printed trigger bar when assembling. The sear end of the trigger bar will need to be bent 90 degrees to go into the printed trigger bar. I HIGHLY suggest using a cheap propane torch to do this as it makes it a lot easier to bend. Just get the section you want to bend red hot and bend it to where you want to go. Make sure not to over heat the rest of the part (especially the sear surface). Bend if to just barely clear the rear rails when in the fired position. The trigger end of the bar will just get pushed into the printed trigger bar. I suggest using a small punch and hammer to get it in tight. Note for disassembly: The printed trigger bar is one time use basically…. Once you press the metal portion of the trigger bar into the printed trigger bar.. its probably not going to come back out easily without destroying the printed trigger bar. Just use a flat head screw driver to snap the small section off of the printed trigger bar when you need to dissemble it and print a new one to replace it. Assembly order: 1. Install Front rails, locking block and catch like normal 3dp glock. Note: there is no slide stop/catch used in this design. 2. Put rear rails in place and verify the pin holes line up. 3. Put the printed trigger bar in place. 4. Tilt the front of the printed trigger bar up while putting the fcg in (with trigger bar cut and bent 90 degrees towards it just like in the photo) 5. Slip the metal trigger bar portion of the fcg into the printed bar and push it down into place. 6. Install trigger, push the trigger’s portion of the trigger bar into the printed trigger bar slot for it in the rear. 7. Use a small punch and hammer to seat the trigger’s metal trigger bar all the way into the printed bar. 8. Put the rear fcg and trigger pins in. 9. Remove the out of battery safety from the slide assembly. (You should already know how to do this if you are experienced with glocks… if you don’t know… maybe you should build a regular glock first and get more familiar with how they function. I would suggest one of Mr. Snows designs.) 10. Install the slide assembly (minus the oob safety) onto the frame. 11. Barrel test fit. Place an EMPTY drum mag in and put the mag catch block fully into the slot locking the mag in. attempt to rack the slide. If the slide hits a hard wall and cant move far back you most likely need to trim a little more from your feed ramp. Disassemble and inspect the drum mag feed ramp for nicks from the barrels feed ramp hitting it. If there are 2 nicks then you need to remove a little more material. 12. Once you have the slide racking smoothly with the drum locked in, you should be ready to shoot. 13. WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN SHOOTING, NO AMOUNT OF LOOKING COOL ON VIDEO IS WORTH GOING BLIND. I would also suggest some good gloves as well. Congratulations you just finished building a Glockoma! Now please try not to go blind shooting it….